Guide · start here
Four questions.
Five inspection points.
No surprises.
Buying used containers badly is genuinely expensive — sometimes in money, occasionally in a failed audit or a contaminated batch. Buying them well takes about ten minutes of preparation. This is that ten minutes.

The short answer
Ask four questions before you buy: what was in it, what wash standard was applied, is there a valid UN marking with a current retest, and what grade is it under a published definition. Then inspect five points on arrival: cage base welds, bottle around the outlet, valve seat, lid gasket and pallet feet. Those nine things prevent nearly every bad outcome.
From the yard


Before you buy
The four questions
Ask these of any seller, including us. The quality of the answers tells you more than the price does.
- STEP 01
What was in it?
Prior contents determine everything downstream — whether it can hold food, whether residues persist, whether it should be near livestock. 'We don't know' is a legitimate answer for a cheap jobsite tote and a disqualifying one for anything else.
- STEP 02
What wash standard was applied?
'Cleaned' spans a cold rinse and a caustic clean-in-place. Ask for a named standard and a record. If neither exists, price the tote as unwashed and plan to clean it yourself.
- STEP 03
Is there a valid UN marking?
Only relevant if you'll ship regulated product on public roads. If you will, ask for the reconditioner registration number and the last test date. A plate alone proves nothing.
- STEP 04
What grade, under whose definition?
Grade only means something if the seller publishes what their grades mean. Ask for the definition. Comparing two quotes without it is comparing two different products.
On arrival
The five failure points
These account for nearly every problem we see at intake. Five minutes with a flashlight before you sign the delivery paperwork.
| Point | What you're looking for | Why it matters | Verdict if bad |
|---|---|---|---|
| Cage base corner welds | Cracks, previous repair, corrosion at the joint | The base corners carry the entire load of a full tote | Reject — this is the one failure that drops 2,400 lb |
| Bottle around the outlet | Crazing, stress whitening, deformation, weeping | The outlet flange is moulded into the bottle and is the highest-stress area | Reject for liquid service; may be rebottlable |
| Valve seat and body | Cross-threading, cracked body, perished gasket, weeping | Cheapest part to replace, most common source of slow loss | Accept with a new valve — negotiate it |
| Lid and gasket | Missing gasket, wrong lid, cracked threads, wrong vent type | Determines whether the tote seals and whether it collapses under pump | Accept with a new lid; confirm vented vs solid |
| Pallet feet and deck | Broken feet, deformed deck, rot on wood, blocked fork entry | Determines whether a forklift can safely lift it at all | Reject if forks won't seat squarely |
Red flags
Claims that mean nothing
None of these are lies exactly. They're just statements with no content, and they're used precisely because they cannot be checked.
“Food grade” with no record
Food grade is a documentation claim. Without a prior-contents history and a wash record, the accurate word is 'clean'.
“UN rated” with no registration
Only a registered reconditioner can restore a UN marking. Ask for the registration number. A plate on a cage is not a certification.
“Professionally cleaned”
By whom, to what standard, at what temperature, with what chemistry, recorded how? If none of that has an answer, it's a hose-down.
“Like new”
A description of appearance offered in place of a grade. Ask for the grade and its published definition instead.
Deciding what to actually buy
Start with the product, not the container
What goes in the tote determines everything: the grade, the seal compound, the valve, the lid and whether documentation is needed. Sellers who ask what you are storing before quoting are doing you a favour, not stalling.
Then the size
The 275 is the default and fits everywhere. The 330 is better value per gallon if your clearances allow it. The decision is almost entirely about height — see 275 vs 330.
Then the grade
Grade moves price by a factor of four across the same size, which makes it the most consequential choice on the order. Buy the cheapest grade that genuinely works — the grades page sets out what each one is good and bad for.
Then the fittings
A ball valve on viscous product costs you an hour on every transfer, forever. A vented lid prevents bottle collapse under pump. Both are small premiums at purchase and large regrets afterwards. See valve and fitting sizes.
Then the freight
For used containers, freight is a meaningful share of delivered cost. Consolidated routes make small orders viable; dedicated loads win above about twenty units. Yard pickup beats both. Details on the transport page.
Costs
What actually drives the number
In rough order of impact on your delivered price.
| Driver | Typical impact | How to manage it |
|---|---|---|
| Grade | Up to 4× across the same size | Buy the cheapest grade that genuinely works |
| Freight distance and mode | Can exceed unit price on small distant orders | Use consolidated routes or collect at the yard |
| Quantity | Steps at 10, 24, 48 and full trailer | Consolidate purchases into fewer larger orders |
| Documentation | Meaningful premium on F-grade and UN-marked stock | Only buy documentation you'll actually use |
| Valve and fittings | Modest, but permanent in daily time cost | Spend here — it pays back fast |
| Pallet type | Small on price, real on freight weight | Composite unless the environment demands otherwise |
| Size | Smaller than people expect | Prefer 330 per gallon if clearances allow |
Questions people actually ask
+What's the single most important question to ask a seller?
+Is buying used actually risky?
+Should I buy locally or ship?
+How do I know a price is fair?
+Is it worth driving to the yard?
Quick reference
Numbers worth having open in another tab
The figures that come up in almost every conversation, whichever page you arrived on.
275 gallon · 1040 L
48×40×46
- Tare
- 130 lb
- Gross, water
- 2,425 lb
- Stack full
- 2 high
- Stock
- Always in stock
330 gallon · 1250 L
48×40×53
- Tare
- 160 lb
- Gross, water
- 2,915 lb
- Stack full
- 2 high
- Stock
- Always in stock
264 gallon · 1000 L
48×40×46
- Tare
- 125 lb
- Gross, water
- 2,325 lb
- Stack full
- 2 high
- Stock
- Usually in stock
350 gallon · 1325 L
48×40×56
- Tare
- 175 lb
- Gross, water
- 3,095 lb
- Stack full
- 2 high
- Stock
- Order in
From the yard notes
Longer reading on this
32 articles written by the people who wash, grade, weld and dispatch. No marketing copy in any of them.
- Buying · July 25, 2023 · 3 minBuying Used Containers Without Getting Burned: Four QuestionsFour questions, asked by email, before any money moves. The quality of the answers tells you more than the price does.
- Buying · January 19, 2022 · 4 minGrade A Is Not Food Grade, and the Difference Costs Real MoneyThe most abused phrase in the used-container business, and the three things that have to be true before anyone should use it.
- Buying · January 17, 2024 · 3 minFive Drums or One Tote: Running the Comparison HonestlyOne lift instead of five, one pallet position instead of two, one closure instead of ten. And four situations where the drum still wins.
On the yard this week


More answers
While you're here
Pulled from the full FAQ, which runs to forty-plus answers across buying, grades, food safety, sizes, selling, compliance, delivery and care.
- Where we are
- 3505 Montopolis Dr, Austin, TX 78744
- Yard hours
- Mon–Thu 7:30a–5p · Fri 7:30a–4p · Sat 8a–12p · Sun closed (Central Time)
- Coverage
- 68 Texas counties on scheduled routes, from one Austin yard.
+What if the totes arrive worse than described?
+How much does a used IBC tote cost?
+Can I buy a single tote?
+What is your minimum order?
+Can I clean a tote myself?
Or skip all of it and just ask.
Tell us what's going in the tote and how many you need. We'll do the grade selection, name the wash standard and tell you if the cheap option is fine.